The most intense part of my day
Life is surprisingly uneventful in Angola, there isn't much to do. Everything is quite expensive and generally a pain in the ass to do. So, we don't end up doing very much. However, I do have to drive home every day, and it is quite the endeavor.
So, it is broken up into 3 distinct parts: getting out of downtown, the long stretch and the white knuckle drive. Getting out of downtown is not the simplest of tasks, as not only do I have to back into bumper to bumper traffic where nobody wants to let you in, but then you have to navigate the "streets" here. I use the word "streets" roughly, because they are crap. Many of the streets in the city of Luanda were built by Chinese firms, and that means they were built really quickly and on the cheap. Therefore, after 3 years the road has fallen apart, giant potholes everywhere, water overflowing out of sewers. Just a mess. So I navigate these back roads, trying to avoid the potholes and all the people wandering around. Never forget that the people crossing the street can never break their strut, much to the chagrin of all the drivers. To cross a road, you just kind of stick out your bumper and make everyone stop. Pretty sketchy. This all takes about 10 minutes.
Once I manage to get into the long stretch, is where the work begins. It's bumper to bumper, if you leave the smallest space (30 cm), someone will start pushing in your lane. So you are pushed up against all cars, going up and down hills...in a manual transmission. Not fun. Also at the same time, the roads are crawling with police that pull people over for pretty much whatever reason they feel like. Avoiding eye contact here is key, as is looking like a confident asshole. The road is also full of people walking up and down and between traffic trying to sell everything from basketballs, dog chains, pieces of art, popcorn and stereos. This is about 4km, and it takes roughly an hour if I'm lucky.
Now comes the intense part. The white knuckle drive. After I get past the outdoor gym, the road opens up a bit and people start gunning it. You gotta keep up, because not only do you want to get home but someone will smash into you if you aren't going fast. There are giant semi trailer trucks, weaving all over the road, most of their turn signals or brake lights don't work, with tires looking like they are about to pop. There are the "taxis" which are essentially 20 year old Toyota minivans that are spewing black exhaust, full of Angolans, driving like utter maniacs, even if their turn signals work they don't use them. The buses that pull over on the right side every 500 meters or so, but insist on driving in the left lane, so they are essentially weaving in and out with regards to no one. And everyone else, just utter crazies. Half the people drive ridiculous speeds, weaving through everyone, never signalling, and honking/flashing their high beams at everyone, often times with brake lights disconnected. A quarter of the people (usually women) driving incredibly slow, and often side by side, and the last quarter who alternate between the two at random intervals. Most of this is on two lane traffic that opens up to 5 lane traffic, which promptly closes back down to 2 lane traffic.
This is not all though, no siree bob. Angolans have some death wish I think, and they start crossing the road everywhere, so you have to keep a keen eye for someone who looks like they are going to start their slow strut across a busy motorway. They have pedestrian crossing, but they are really just for show. If this wasn't all enough to avoid, there are random dead dogs, pieces of scrap metal, pot holes and god knows what else scattered on the road. Several places have giant semis that just pull out whenever, into the middle of speeding traffic, also Angolans will simply stop their cars in the middle of traffic. Oh yes, and police road checks to get bribes...I mean, "check your papers."
I have seen ridiculous shit here. Semi's jack-knifing across traffic, countless near misses, and just plain idiots abound. This is why I often want a beer when I get home.




